What is bias cutting, and how do we do it at Byetsa?

What bias cutting is and why it provides elasticity to fabric

Bias cutting is the technique of cutting fabric at a 45° angle to the fabric grain. This diagonal cut provides elasticity and drape that straight cutting cannot achieve, and is the basis for manufacturing bias tapes. It is used both to make garments with better draping and to create strips that finish, reinforce, and decorate all types of edges.

It is used to create complete dresses, giving them an elegant drape, or in the form of strips to finish, embellish, and reinforce garment edges.

Byetsa, with over 50 years of experience in the textile market, is an international benchmark in bias tape production.

Our company has specialised in all its variants, offering two product lines: Fany and Byor, designed to meet the most demanding needs in the home, fashion, consumer, packaging, and industrial sectors.

We manufacture bias binding in all its types and formats, from cut bias (flat), in high demand in the industrial textile manufacturing sector, to folded bias binding, ideal for fashion and home applications.

What bias cutting is used for: applications by sector

Bias cutting in fashion and garment making

In the dynamic and ever-changing world of fashion, bias tape emerges as an invaluable resource for designers and dressmakers. This element is not only experiencing a resurgence in popularity due to its unmatched versatility and functionality; it also becomes an essential tool for injecting creativity and originality into designs.

Bias tape allows the creation of finishes that are simultaneously clean, elegant, and highly sophisticated, conforming perfectly to curves and contours for an impeccable result.

Thus, it becomes a key piece for making haute couture garments, where every detail counts, even in the most avant-garde collections that seek to break the mould with innovation and style.

Bias cutting in home textiles

In the home sector, bias binding finds its place in a broad and diverse spectrum of applications, making a difference in garment making and interior design.

From making bedding that invites rest, to towels, tablecloths, curtains, and blinds that bring a touch of distinction and warmth to any space, bias tape proves to be a strategic ally.

Its ability to provide elegant finishes, combined with durability that withstands the passage of time and everyday use, ensures that such essential elements maintain their beauty and functionality, enhancing the comfort and style of the home.

Bias cutting in consumer products

The consumer market benefits greatly from the rich variety of items enriched by the use of our bias tapes. Their inclusion in clothing and fashion accessories not only adds a detail of quality and durability, but also offers a window to personalisation and the expression of identity through fashion.

In addition, home décor items, from cushions to decorative elements, are embellished with the inclusion of bias tapes, demonstrating that functionality and aesthetics can go hand in hand to create unique and welcoming environments.

Bias cutting in industry

Industry benefits significantly from the innovative solutions that Byetsa offers through its bias tapes.

Our specialised products, such as fluorescent tapes in bright colours, reflective tapes made with 3M “Scotchlite” fabric, durable nylon tapes, and innovative glow tapes, are designed to meet specific needs for safety, visibility, and durability.

Bias cutting in packaging

The packaging sector is transformed with our offering of customised and printed bias tapes, demonstrating the impact of innovation and technological development on product differentiation.

In a market where presentation and first impression are key, we offer solutions that not only beautify, but also add value and character to any type of packaging.

From luxury product packaging to ecological and sustainable solutions, our tapes allow brands to communicate their identity and commitment to quality in a visually appealing and memorable way.

How to cut on the bias: the step-by-step technique

Once the fabric has been cut on the bias, the sewing stage arrives. There are various types of seams suitable for bias, each with particular characteristics that allow different finishes and styles to be achieved. Here are some of them…

• Superimposed seams: This seam begins by superimposing two or more pieces of material. One or more rows of stitches are made near the edge, allowing a clean and uniform finish. This type of seam is especially useful in garments that require a flat and discreet seam.
• Lapped seamsIn this seam, materials are overlapped and joined with one or more rows of stitches. Unlike superimposed seams, lapped seams are used in situations where greater strength is needed in the seam, such as in heavy-use garments.
• Bound seams: These are formed by folding a strip of binding over the edge of the material layers. Then, both edges of the binding are joined to the material with one or more rows of stitches. This technique is often used on shirt necklines, providing a professional and polished appearance.
• Decorative seam: Decorative seaming not only joins pieces of fabric, but also contributes a design element to the final product. These seams, which follow a line or ornamental design in a fold of material, add a touch of style and elegance to any garment.

• Flat seamsThis type of seam joins two fabric edges over stitch points, resulting in a join where the edges meet, rather than overlap. They are ideal for garments that need a smooth, bulk-free finish, such as underwear and corsetry.
• Edge-finished seams: This sewing method includes seams in which the edges are overcast with stitches. They are ideal for achieving a clean finish on edges, such as in hems or invisible hems on flies or linings.
• Joining elements: In some cases, it is necessary to add additional components at the edges, such as elastic tapes. This type of seam requires precision and care to ensure a perfect fit.
• Simple construction: In this seam, a single piece of fabric becomes two edges. It is commonly used in belt loops, giving a clean and professional finish.

When selecting the type of seam, it is important to consider three fundamental elements: seam size (measured by its depth, length, and width), seam slippage strength (the amount of force needed to displace a total of ¼ of the opposing sets of threads perpendicular to the seam line), and seam strength (the force required to open the seam).

Which fabrics are most suitable for bias cutting

Not all fabrics behave the same when cut diagonally. Since bias cutting takes advantage of the fabric’s natural elasticity, the chosen material determines the drape, stability, and final finish of the tape or garment. These are the most common options:

• Cotton. It is the most versatile and widely used fabric for bias tape: it offers a good balance between elasticity and stability, is easy to sew, and is ideal for trims and everyday garment making.
• Cotton-polyester. The blend adds strength and durability, with fewer wrinkles and better performance with frequent washing; a very practical option for home textiles and industry.
• Satin. Its sheen and fluid drape make it the favourite for fashion and haute couture, where draping and elegant finish are priorities.
• Gingham and prints. They provide a decorative component highly valued in childcare, children’s fashion, and home, without sacrificing the advantages of bias cutting.
• Stretch fabrics. When garment making needs additional stretch, elastic bias binding combines the diagonal cut with reinforced elasticity.

As a general rule, almost any woven fabric can be cut on the bias, but it is advisable to avoid very stiff fabrics or those with too much body, which lose the flexibility that makes this cut useful. When in doubt, it is worth testing with a small strip before cutting the entire piece.

Hand bias cutting versus industrial bias cutting

Bias cutting can be done by hand or through industrial processes, and the difference goes far beyond production volume.

Hand bias cutting is the option for one-off sewing projects: with a ruler, a square, and scissors (or a rotary cutter and cutting mat) the 45° angle is marked and the strips are cut one by one. It is accessible and more than sufficient for specific garments, but depends on the skill of the cutter and it is difficult to maintain uniform width and angle when several metres of tape are needed.

Industrial bias cutting, on the other hand, is designed to produce bias tape in large quantities with total uniformity. Machinery guarantees a constant angle, widths calibrated to the millimetre, discreet joins between strips, and folded finishes ready to use. That repeatability is essential in sectors such as fashion, childcare, home, industry, or packaging, where each roll must be identical to the previous one.

In summary: for a dress or a home alteration, hand cutting suffices; to supply a garment factory or product line with consistent quality, industrial manufacturing is the only reliable route. At Byetsa we combine that know-how with custom production, offering bias tapes in different formats and materials adapted to each application.

Byetsa, your trusted bias tape manufacturer

At Byetsa, we pride ourselves on being recognised as leaders in the production of the highest quality bias tapes. We are committed to meeting our customers’ needs and offer a wide variety of materials, widths, and formats.

If you would like to receive more detailed information about any of our products, do not hesitate to contact us by phone at +34 93 874 40 98 or via our email info@byetsa.es. You can also fill out the contact form available on our website.